If you're thinking of buying a used bike
(or any vehicle) it might be worth having it checked out by
mycarcheck.com.
You get an immediate online vehicle data check which includes
stolen/police interest, write off/accident damage, scrapped
by the DVLA, plate transfers, former keepers, full VIN/chassis
check, make and model, engine number and size, colour and
colour changes, imported or exported and date first registered
all for the introductory price of just £9.95.
Research prices
First of all do your research. Find out the going rate for
the type of bike you want. Look in Loot, Freeads, Trade-it,
Admart etc. and check out the on-line classifieds and used bike
dealers such as
Or check out some prices at ebay.co.uk
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The biggest auction in the
UK. Almost everything can be bought and sold here including
bikes, mopeds, scooters, accessories, clothing, tools etc.
And it's not as complicated as it looks. |
Take an expert
If you're not mechanically minded, take someone
who is. A friend, perhaps, who knows what to look for, or even
pay to have the vehicle inspected by an expert, a service provided
by motoring organisations (e.g. the
AA or RAC). It could save you a lot of money. But if you
can't take an expert then...
First impressions
When you first see the bike do you see a machine
that looks like it's been cared for or do you see a wreck? If
it's the first one then go on to the next stage but if not then
it's probably best to walk away.
Legal documents
The seller should have the log book (V5) and,
if the bike is 3 years old or more, an MOT certificate. If he
hasn't then don't even bother examining the bike. There may
also be a service book.
Once you've got the log book in your hands
do the following
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Check that it's not a forgery by holding
it up to the light to see the watermark |
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Make sure the frame and engine numbers
match and are the same as in the log book |
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Make sure the colour of the bike is as
stated in the log book. If the bike has been resprayed ask
to see the receipt for that job. |
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Make sure the name and address on the log
book is where the bike is now |
If there's no watermark then don't buy the
bike. If any of the other 3 are not as they should be there
could be an honest reason. Ask, and if you aren't happy with
the answer, don't buy it.
Examine the bike
First look for clues that the bike has been
involved in an accident e.g. scrapes on the exhaust or the ends
of the handlebars or foot pedals. If you do see scrapes ask
about them. If you feel uneasy about the answer then don't buy
it.
Ask the seller to start the bike for you. (If
he doesn't know how be VERY suspicious). When the engine is
ticking over listen for 2 particular sounds
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A low frequency knocking sound coming from
the bottom part of the engine (the sump). If you hear it,
it means the big end has gone and you'll need a complete
engine rebuild. Don't buy it. |
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A high frequency tapping sound from the
top part of the engine (the cylinder head). This could mean
the tappets are worn and need to be replaced or they could
just need adjusting. If they need replacing it's expensive
(£100 or more) |
If you don't hear either of these 2 sounds
you can persuade them to make themselves heard by holding a
gloved hand lightly over the end of the exhaust for about 5
seconds. If you still don't hear them then so far so good.
If there is severe dark smoking from the exhaust
it means the piston rings are going and need replacing. Again,
an expensive job.
If you see oil coming from the cylinder head
that's bad news.
Bounce the front of the bike up and down and
then look for oil rings around the shiny parts of the forks.
If oil rings are there it means that the fork seals have gone
and need replacing. It's not expensive for parts but it is for
labour unless you can do it yourself. Now do the same with the
back of the bike.
Look also on the forks for pitted rust holes.
If there are some then you'll be forever replacing the fork
seals.
Now move the bike forwards and apply the front
brake. Move forwards again and apply the rear brake. If you
hear a grinding noise it means that either the drum needs cleaning
or new shoes are needed.
Check for slackness in the chain. There should be about
an inch and a half of slack. If it's any slacker make sure the
digits on the adjustment nuts are not on max as this could mean
that a new chain and sprockets are needed.
Turn the handlebars right and left. They should be smooth
with no cracking, crunching or grinding noises. If you do hear
any of those noises it could mean the bearings have gone.
Look at the tyres. The depth of the tread should be at least
1mm. Anything less is illegal. Check also that the rubber is
not perished. If it is it makes getting a puncture a lot easier
and remember, you won't be carrying a spare so it's vital to
have good tyres in good condition.
Finally, ride the bike. Accelerate, brake front and back,
turn corners, do U-turns, stop it, start it again, test the
security system if it has one. If you're happy with it all,
start haggling. If you've done your research you'll have a good
idea if you're being ripped off or getting a bargain. And remember,
there are more bikes for sale than there are buyers.
If you'd like more information about buying a used bike
then click HERE
for the most thorough report (with photos) we've found on this
subject. It's American but most of it still applies.
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